Introduction As a dog trainer I am constantly seeing the same mistakes being made by dog owners that have led to the very issues that they called me to help them counter. The way we are with our dogs is a huge part in how they behave and it isn’t always obvious that we are the issue until the fact smacks us in the face. I often go into a client’s home to meet their “aggressive” dog and within minutes have the dog sitting on my lap, licking my face, and asking for belly rubs. When my clients see this, they realize that their dog is aggressive because of how they act around the dog. There is no excuse for a dog to be aggressive, but what the dog’s handlers do with their dog will either condition the dog to behave that way or to behave in a calm and attentive way. The top three mistakes dog handlers make are how they use the tools they use, how they communicate with their dog, and how they handle their dog. If every dog handler in the world just focused on these three things until they mastered them there would be far less dogs in shelters than there are right now. 1) Tools Michelangelo didn’t sculpt David with a toothpick. The tools you use matter. A huge mistake that I see dog handlers make is that they use the wrong tools for the job. The harness, for instance, is a fine tool for sports, but should never be used for basic obedience. The dog should always be on a type of collar for basic obedience. This way instead of your dog just not being choked out when they drag you on the walk, you can teach the dog to stop dragging you. That’s a win-win situation and will lead to less behavioral issues in the future. If you just let your dog drag you then they think they can do whatever they want and that ends up being stressful for them. If you let them lead, they will make decisions based on their instincts and the outcome may not fit our societal norms. They may choose to drag you through traffic to say hello to the dog across the street or they may think that they need to protect you from everyone that comes close. The main tools every dog handler needs is the right collar for their dog, a six foot leash that has absolutely no stretch to it whatsoever, a treat pouch or vest that makes it very easy to grab treats, and high value treats. It would also benefit your recall practice to have a long leash that’s anywhere from fifteen to fifty feet long. With these few and simple tools you can train any dog to do most any basic command and counter any behavioral issues. 2) Communication “Max, come! ... Max, come! ... Come here boy ... MAX!!! I said, ‘Come’ ... Whatever! Max just never listens when he doesn’t want to. I swear he knows that command, but that dog just has a mind of his own.” The owner says and then goes back to watching tv while their dog barks through the window at the neighbors walking out on the sidewalk. Is that what you do? It’s what I see or hear about most people doing. Your dog is learning to not listen to you because you aren’t communicating very well. Here is the correct thing to do. Max barks from across the room. “Max, come!” Max doesn’t come. The dog owner gets up and walks over to Max, corrects him if he’s still barking, and then makes him come back to where he wants Max to be. You can even give Max a treat once he settles down by you. The next time it happens Max is more likely to come the first time you call him so he doesn’t have the unpleasant experience of you grabbing his collar and pulling him to come along with you and he even gets treats and love when he chooses to be by you instead of the window. You can set up a different exercise to even train your dog to stop barking out the window altogether. 3) Handling How you handle your dog is very similar and in many ways is the same thing as how you communicate with your dog, but it’s such a huge issue that I consider it a thing of its own. Primarily the issue handlers have is how they use the leash. There should only be tension on the line when you’re trying to communicate something with your dog and that tension should go away immediately after the dog does what you were trying to get them to do or stop doing. This is either positive punishment or negative reinforcement depending on how you’re using the tension. Far too often handlers have meaningless constant pressure on the dog or allow the dog to have a constant pressure on themselves and the dog slowly gets desensitized to leash pressure. If the dog doesn’t care about leash pressure and they become a reactive dog, it becomes very difficult to then use leash pressure to help the dog overcome their reactivity. Poor leash manners not only makes training difficult, but it makes the dog’s behaviors worse. It’s very rare to meet a dog that drags their handler the entire walk that isn’t also reactive. Poor leash manners and reactivity go hand in hand. This is unfortunate because when your dog is being reactive they usually won’t take treats because their mind isn’t on food so you need to use the leash to teach them. Conclusion There’s no need to spend all of your money on a board & train program that isn’t going to help how your dog behaves with you anyways, just use the right tools the right way, follow through with commands and communicate clearly to your dog, and learn how to handle the leash so it becomes more than just a rope that you use to tether yourself to your wild dog. If everyone that had a dog focused on not messing those three things up, they would see progress in their dog’s behavior in no time and fewer dogs would end up in the shelter.

In the world of dog training, it's not uncommon for concerned pet parents to wonder if there's still hope for their furry friends exhibiting reactive, aggressive, or skittish behaviors. The good news? The answer is almost always a resounding yes! However, the journey to a harmonious relationship with your pup may require a bit of understanding, patience, and clear communication. In many cases where dogs display challenging behaviors, it's crucial to recognize that change is not only possible but often within paw's reach. The key? Addressing the dynamics between human and canine. It's not that there's no hope for your dog; it's about understanding and reshaping the dynamics that may unknowingly contribute to undesirable behaviors. Let's face it – humans aren't as adaptable as our four-legged companions. Often, the behaviors we observe in our dogs are inadvertently reinforced by our actions, and changing our ways can be a bit trickier. Unlike our furry friends, we might not be quick to drop everything and become the perfect canine companion. However, there's hope! Trainers play a pivotal role in guiding pet parents through the essentials, offering the tools needed to foster a positive relationship. Dogs are incredibly adaptable creatures. Throw them into a well-designed training program, and you'll witness their remarkable ability to adjust and align with the goals and needs set before them. Whether it's overcoming aggression, skittishness, or reactivity, our canine companions have an innate capacity for change. It is equally, if not more important to teach the owners of the dog to understand how to follow through with commands with their dog and become the most important thing in their dog’s life at all times. This is where many people fail and why several programs like board and training can be a huge waste of time and money. If the dog comes back home to the same people doing the same things the dog is being set up for failure. As trainers, our mission extends beyond teaching tricks and obedience commands. We're here to bridge the communication gap between humans and dogs, ensuring that the learning curve is gentle and effective. While people may find it challenging to overhaul their lifestyles entirely, we focus on imparting the bare minimum – the essentials that make a world of difference. So, to all the pet parents out there wondering if there's hope for their dogs, remember this: the journey might have its bumps, but transformation is within reach. By understanding the dynamics, addressing the reinforcing factors, and embracing the adaptability of our canine companions, we can harness the full potential of every dog, fostering a bond that lasts a lifetime. Here's to unleashing hope and harnessing every pup's potential, one wag at a time!

The world of dog breeding is a complex one, with varying opinions on the role of breeders in shaping our beloved canine companions. While it is crucial to recognize the value of responsible breeders who prioritize the well-being of the animals, it's equally essential to address the issues associated with backyard breeding, accidental breeding, and puppy mills. In this blog post, we'll explore the importance of balanced breeding practices that ensure the welfare of both dogs and their owners. This post is largely in response to the argument of people that think all breeders are evil and you should only ever adopt your dog from shelters. Most people with these beliefs do not feel the same way about adopting human children and have biological children of their own. My opinion is that it’s genocidal to condemn good breeders because the more random breedings become, the more likely the dog is to have issues eventually. This whole idea is such a shame because humans have intentionally bred dogs for centuries and this has made our connection with some so strong and important. I see this imbalance of beliefs to completely tip our cultural norms with our furry companions and may even lead to their extinction down the road. My goal in life is to make dogs even more relevant in the modern world. The Role of Responsible Breeders Responsible breeders play a vital role in preserving and improving specific dog breeds. These individuals are dedicated to the well-being of the animals, possessing the knowledge to make informed decisions about breeding practices. They carefully consider traits that should be emphasized and those that should be avoided, contributing to the health and temperament of the breed. Addressing Unethical Practices While acknowledging the importance of good breeders, it's essential to condemn unethical practices such as backyard breeding, accidental breeding, and puppy mills. These practices can lead to overpopulation, health issues, and behavioral problems in dogs. A balanced approach involves not only appreciating good breeders but also actively discouraging irresponsible breeding. My belief is that the regulated requirements for being a breeder should be revised and enhanced to prevent these unethical practices and the punishment for not following the regulations should be greater in addition. These are lives we are talking about here. Whether you value your dog’s life the same as your own or not, I think it’s obvious that their lives matter and should be looked out for. Even if you don’t value their lives at all, our lack of regulations and enforcement of them has gotten us into quite a mess. Kids are being bitten and killed, dogs are everywhere, and the work it takes to care for dogs that are most likely just going to be put down anyways is preventing humans from doing more productive work. Enhancing Responsible Breeding Practices To improve breeding practices, it is crucial to implement measures that hold breeders accountable. One significant aspect is being more selective about who can purchase dogs and puppies. Breeders should take responsibility for the lives they bring into the world and be diligent in ensuring that their animals go to responsible and loving homes. Furthermore, breeders should consider implementing policies that require them to take back dogs if the new owners are no longer able to care for them. This practice would not only reduce the frequency of breedings but also increase the chances of breeders being sure the home their dog is going to will in fact be their forever home. Extended Time with Mothers and Quality Training Another aspect of responsible breeding involves allowing puppies to stay with their mothers for an extended period and ensuring they receive quality training from reputable trainers. This approach contributes to the overall well-being and behavior of the dogs, setting a foundation for positive interactions with their future owners. Eight weeks is just way too young to give a random person a dog. There will definitely be accidents on your carpet, chewing, and other behavioral incidents that many people get overwhelmed by and dump the dog. The owner is busy working or taking care of the kids and a puppy is like having a baby. This is why I think they should stay with their mom’s for longer and be trained while still at the breeding facility. This will increase the cost of puppies but decrease the after purchase costs and heartache. This will also eliminate the horrible idea we humans have that puppies are gifts. Puppies become dogs and dogs that are treated as puppies act like puppies and ruin your house, hurt people, and are not good companions. Getting a puppy when they’re closer to six months old that has been trained by people and their mom is set up for success way more than handing an eight week old to someone who has never had a puppy before. Dog Owner Training and Licensing Balanced breeding practices also extend to the owners. Implementing basic training requirements and licensing for prospective dog owners can contribute to responsible pet ownership. This step ensures that dogs go to homes where they will receive proper care, training, and attention. Although the breeder should ensure the puppy has plenty of training before going to their forever home, the new owner of the dog should also be trained to know how to handle the likely scenarios that they’ll have to face with their dog such as reactivity, continuing potty training, skittishness, pulling on the leash, separation anxiety, and chasing prey animals. The likelihood of these being issues is decreased if the breeder is sure they are regularly trained before going home, but if the new owner doesn’t know what they’re doing then the dog will learn bad habits and all of the breeders' effort will be for none. Challenges in the Current System While advocating for responsible breeding, it's crucial to recognize the challenges within the current system. Shelters often resort to marketing tactics that are manipulative, playing on the guilt of potential adopters. However, addressing the root causes, such as poor breeder regulations, inadequate dog owner training, and cultural acceptance of pets, is crucial for long-term change. It seems more and more people are turning on breeders and only trusting shelters. While I believe most people that work at shelters have good hearts, the marketing tactic of, “Buy from us or we kill the dog” is manipulative. I understand they’re overwhelmed and picking up the slack for poor regulations, but I’d like to see a society where shelters are nothing more than a thing of the past. There will always be dogs that need to be given up, but I hope regulations and societal norms assure the proper care of dogs and have back ups set in place before the purchase of any dog can be made. I hope to see people come to a consensus on the best training approaches, rent not going up because you have pets, regulations to prevent poor breeding practices, higher standards of life quality for dogs, more informed dog owners, and dogs being more welcomed into our society instead of looked at as villains, liabilities, and equally not our babies that can do no wrong. Conclusion Striking a balance in the world of dog breeding requires a nuanced perspective that acknowledges the value of responsible breeders while actively discouraging unethical practices. By incorporating regulated and ethical breeding practices, we can work towards a future where dogs are bred responsibly, find loving homes, and contribute positively to the lives of their owners for generations to come.

Do you have a dog that doesn’t behave? Do they pull when on leash, bark at people, and not come when called? Are you embarrassed to take them places with you? Do they make your house seem like a circus? These are some of the most common things I hear from dog owners when they first reach out inquiring about my training programs. I’m going to tell you today that getting a dog to not only stop any undesired behaviors, but also transform them into the perfect companion dog is as easy as 1, 2, & 3. Many trainers will teach you so many commands and tricks that it can be overwhelming. Not to mention that most of the commands are nothing more than party tricks. Sure, it helps build a bond with the dog, but you can be building your bond with your dog while teaching them some very useful things. To train your reactive, aggressive, skittish, or simply untrained dog to behave all you need is three commands. You may be wondering, “Why just three commands?” or “How does that get my dog to stop being aggressive?”. Let me tell you! You only need three commands, but not just any three commands. The three commands I'm referring to are the most useful commands of all. You can stop your dog’s aggression or other unwanted behaviors with these commands by first teaching the dog these commands without the trigger present and then setting up a controlled session where you will introduce the thing that triggers your dog while expecting them to still obey these commands. By doing this the right way you speed up training without needing to avoid their triggers. Instead of crossing the street when a dog is coming, you’ll be able to pass the dog without hiccup. So what are the three most important commands? The first thing you need to teach your dog isn’t really a command at all. It’s more of a boundary that you need to set with any dog you’re handling. That boundary is leash manners! Leash manners is the most complicated of all the things I teach, but it’s also the best way to teach any dog to never pull on leash again and translates to off leash much better than a forced heel does. A forced heel is what most people try to do with their dog and I think it’s useless without treats and when your dog is distracted enough, they don’t care about treats. They just use the leash instead and constantly drag or pop the dog back to where they want them. Oftentimes they even hold the dog back in that position which just builds frustration and drive in your dog to keep trying to go ahead. Leash manners has three rules. No stopping unless it’s a potty break, no zig zagging, and no pulling. The dog can stop you twice per hour for a potty break. If they like to mark, they can’t stop me while they do it after the second stop. They are used to holding it, that’s how they mark, so you do not need to worry about this hurting your dog. They will learn to let more out in the first stop and usually stop marking all together. I don’t mind marking, so if they can lift their leg and mark without stopping me, I’m usually ok with it. No zig zagging means they can’t cut across you in front, behind, or out away from you. I recommend starting by staying consistent with practicing only on one side. It will be a little easier if everyone that walks the dog walked them on the same side, but not essential as the dog will soon learn which side to walk on with which handlers. Walking them on one side makes training consistent for the dog and allows them to learn what you expect of them much faster than otherwise. With this rule also comes a rule for the handler which is to not allow the dog to correct themselves when they cut you off by going around you. If they cut across the front of you, they go back to the correct side in front of you. Same with behind you. This prevents them from developing the habit of running circles around you and making you always switch hands with the leash. Both of these rules can be handled by continuing to walk when the rule is broken and correcting the dog or luring the dog either back to the correct side or to continue walking. You do not want to stop walking when they stop walking or zig zag. When you stop while they do these things your body language is giving them control of the walk. I will just keep them going along and get them out of my way. You also don’t walk to get out of the dog’s way when they zig zag across you in the front. I just walk right through them to teach them that they need to look out for me, not the other way around. Simple enough so far, but here’s the kicker. When your dog pulls you on leash and there’s tension it’s already too late. I let the dog go the entire length of the leash in front of me, but always end up with them choosing to stay right by my side. I get this result, known as a natural heel, by stopping as soon as the dog starts to go ahead of me on our walk. I give them the entire length of the six foot leash to choose to either leave me or stay with me. Just before they create tension in the line, I tug on the leash a little. Timing is everything with this correction; if you do it too late, you’ll be dragging your dog and if you do it too early, the dog won’t feel anything. You want to match your tug with the exact moment they reach the end of the line. This way you let the dog’s momentum do most of the correcting for you, you just emphasize it. Once the dog looks back, the walk continues. The correction should be just hard enough to get them to look back, not hurt them. If they don’t look back, take another step back and correct them again. If they still don’t look back you can turn them around towards you by putting your knee or hand just before their hips while gently pulling the leash back towards you. Once they look back, even then, say, “Good” and continue the walk. If they stop with me, they don’t need to look back, I just continue walking. The sooner you start walking again after they either look back or stop with you, the sooner they will begin to understand the game we’re teaching them. They may get smart and stop just before there’s tension on the line, but that’s not what I want them to learn from this. I want them to learn to focus on me on our walks. When they stop just before there’s tension, I’ll turn and walk the other way. That way they have to come quickly before there’s tension and they get a correction. This, along with variations of this, always teaches them to stay close because they get treats and love when they’re close and corrected when they decide to leave or follow their own impulses. Within a very short period of time you’ll be ready to drop the leash and start trying to get the same results off leash. Leash manners can be used to overcome unwanted behaviors because now your dog knows they can’t leave you when on a leash so if they decide to lunge at the dog across the street, they get corrected and know why. It’s not even necessarily because they lunged at the dog because maybe it was a playful lunge. It’s because they ditched their handler. It gives the dog something else to consider and focus on when on a walk with their owner. They will begin to care only about what the handler is doing and wants from them because that’s what keeps them stimulated, not the distractions the rest of the world has to offer. The second command is recall. Recall may be the most important of all commands because it can save your dog’s life. If their other commands are not fine tuned yet and they run out into the street while you get the mail, you can call them back before a car comes. There are countless examples of how recall can be the difference of life or death for your dog. Once you get recall down, it will become difficult to get far enough away from your dog to do a natural recall. That’s a good problem to have. Recall makes it so you can trust your dog off leash in any environment. When you can trust your dog will come back no matter what distractions there are, your trust in your dog grows tenfold and taking them out with you is one of the nicest experiences in life. So how do you go from where your dog’s recall is at now to what I’m talking about? To teach your dog to have insanely reliable recall you’ll need a long leash that’s 15’-20’, a treat pouch full of high value treats, and a good collar that won’t break. For more on the best tools to use check out my other post: https://www.harnessingpotentialdogtraining.com/dog-training-tools. Once you have all of the correct tools you can get started on recall with your dog. There are two ways of working on recall with your dog. The easy way and the realistic way. The easy way is where you have your dog in a sit or down stay, walk away, and call them. This is easier because they’re likely very focused on you when they’re in a command. It’s a great way to get started and you can always add in distractions like throwing their favorite toy the opposite way you are from them and calling them to you at the same time. You can also put their food down in front of them and call them away from it. Whatever you think will distract them while you call them to you is a great start and easy to set up. The realistic way is where the dog is free to roam while on a long line and call them to you when they get distracted by something like another dog, a strong scent, a squirrel, or anything else that would naturally distract your dog. I prefer this method because every dog could use as much practice listening to commands while in that distracted mindset. I find that it leads to off leash very quickly because you can trust what your dog will do when they see, smell, hear, or feel distractions. I prefer that they always check in with their handler when something they aren’t sure of how to handle themselves comes up. See a horseback rider on the trail? Come check in with me instead of freaking out and spooking them. You will go about training either method in the same way. Have the long line on, create space between your dog and yourself, call them with an important sounding tone of voice, and give them a treat when they get to you. If they don’t listen to the first command, tug the leash slightly to get their attention, and call one more time. You do not want to call more than twice or so because then your command starts to lose meaning. If they still don’t listen to you after the second call, reel them in until they start to do it on their own. Even if you have to reel them in all the way you should still give them a treat when they get to you and focus on you for a moment. When you don’t feel like your dog is doing very well you can make the distance shorter between you and your dog. You can also think about where you’re practicing and how much your dog cares about your treats compared to how distracted they are. If they’re too distracted you should find a spot where they are a little less distracted and practice. It really all depends on your dog. If they are very stressed out and anxious or aggressive because of their surroundings then you should reduce the distraction. If they’re just slightly distracted, but you can get their attention, you should keep working there and make yourself as fun and entertaining as possible. I don’t mean to become a jester for your dog, but to make training a little more fun for them. Bring better treats, keep the dog engaged with you and the treats for a moment or two and then try recall, run away from your dog and have them chase you around, and use toys as well as treats. The third thing you should train your dog is a solid down stay. By “solid” I mean they can stay exactly where you left them while you cook dinner, take a shower, get the mail, have a dinner party, or roughhouse with the kids. For example, I used to bring my dog to work with me where I worked 8 hour shifts and would keep her in a down stay the whole time except for my breaks where I would let her run around and get a quick training session with her before having her wait for me again. Down stay helps you to be able to include your dog in your life outside of just the house and it helps make life at home more peaceful. Down stay is much different from just down. Down, in my opinion, is nothing more than a party trick if the dog learns to get up and leave after they get the treat. Down has no utility on its own. Down stay teaches the dog that the command is not over until you say, not because they got what they wanted. Down teaches the dog to manipulate you into feeding them and then they go back to doing whatever they want. I recommend teaching down stay with an implied stay. Everyone teaches stay by putting their hand up to the dog and creeping away which isn’t doing your mindset any favors. You’re teaching yourself to tiptoe around your dog. Everyone also says “stay” way too much. “Stay! Good stay. No! No, stay. Stay, stay, stay, stay, stay.”. Now try to leave the room. You’re reinforcing the command too much and it seems most people do that without even realizing what they’re doing. I just tell the dog to lay down and start giving them treats without saying the command any more. Then I build up to leaving the room. I have no problem with teaching stay if you’re going to do it right, but most people can’t help themselves and say the command too much. I teach down by luring the dog into the down position with a treat. You can wean the treat out as the dog begins to understand the command. If they don’t go down right away, I say the command one more time and apply some leash pressure. If they resist, just wait them out. If it takes more than a few minutes or the dog is stressed out by the pressure, then just say come and apply pressure on the leash, having them chase the treat around. The leash pressure should go in the direction you want them to go in. Then try to lure them back down. The pressure should be very light. You do not want to drag the dog down. Dragging the dog will make them resist more and won’t teach them the command. The pressure should be like a puzzle for the dog. If they resist, the pressure stays. If they go with it, the pressure is released. Once the dog is down, I give them the treat for laying down and then continue giving them treats every second or so to reinforce the implied stay. I get up when I think I can without the dog following me. Once up, I stand tall and then give another treat and keep repeating that until I can take one step away from the dog, then two, then three. Then I take a step to the left, then right. After each step I come back and give the dog a treat. Then I turn my back to the dog and come back and give a treat. As time goes on I start to go further and increase the time between treats. Once the dog is really good, I’ll leave the room for a second, throw their favorite toy, ring the doorbell, open the refrigerator, prepare their food, or sit down where we usually cuddle. The more distractions you can throw at your dog without them getting up, the more relaxed both of you will be when you throw another dinner party. If the dog gets up at any point, I grab the leash and apply some pressure downwards to get them to lay back down. I’ll say the command once while doing this and I won’t give them a treat. If you give them a treat after correcting them for getting up, I find they learn to outsmart us and continue to get up so they get a treat again. Do not let them manipulate you like that. By the way, when I say, “outsmart” and “manipulate” I say it for us humans to understand. The dog is just trying to figure out whatever gets them the treat. They aren’t basing their actions on morality like we do. With these three simple commands you can teach your dog to stop being reactive, calm down, and focus on you. They will allow you the freedom and peace of mind every dog owner craves. Your dog will know enough to have a healthy and structured relationship with you and be able to join you anywhere. It doesn’t matter where you’re starting, it just takes time, patience, precision, and love. There are of course more commands you can teach your dog that are valuable such as place, look, sit, leave it, and hop up, but the three we covered today are the most useful across the board in my experience.

Dog owners often surrender their dog to shelters for reasons that are within our control to address, leading to the possibility of emerging out on the other side happier and healthier. Of course, there are circumstances that come up that are out of the owner’s control and that is justifiable despite still being heartbreaking. For example, it’s growing incredibly difficult to find housing for rent that allows pets. It’s also fair to say that people unexpectedly grow ill and can no longer take care of their pets. Although I believe you should always have a backup guardian for your pets set up and put on paper as an agreement with that person, I understand that life throws unexpected things at us all and no one is or needs to be perfect. I’m not here to shame anyone or judge their situations, but I am here to help with this issue and give some advice on the preventable circumstances that are leading to miserable lives, or even death, for our pets that I see happening all the time. A huge reason why dogs are given up to shelters is because the dog has behavioral issues. This can be anything from the dog pulling on leash to full on aggression. Both and everything in between are completely manageable in most cases. It’s very rare that a dog’s neurological condition prevents them from overcoming unwanted behaviors. The real issue is that the owner, or handler as I prefer to say, doesn’t yet know the correct way to communicate with their dog that leads to overcoming the behavior. We humans have come a long way in our relationship with dogs, and I fear we are now guiding that evolution in the wrong direction. We taught wolves to not eat our children in order to keep being on good terms with the humans that fed them. We bred those wolves in such a way that got us the first breeds of the domesticated dog based off of their parent’s traits that best served tasks we needed their help with. We continued that evolution in a revolutionarily short amount of time to enhance the breeds, aiding us in farming, hunting, protection, war, and servicing the less capable. We fell in love with these animals that were once just beasts to us and only served as villains in cautionary tales. We developed sports to showcase the ability we had to communicate with them and how well we could develop their skill sets. Now they stay at home on your couch while you live your life, only used as part time companions. Stripped of their instinct to belong to a pack and be with others most of the day. Stripped of their responsibility that gave them purpose. And recently, stripped of the balance that every relationship requires. When there is a lack of balance in a relationship, one side of the party gets and does whatever they want while the other grows frustrated and unfulfilled. This, of course, can be subtle or it can be extreme. Typically with dogs it’s extreme one way or another. Whether it is just pulling on leash or full on aggression, it can end in someone getting hurt and the handler to view the dog negatively. After enough of these negative experiences the handler will either decide to live miserably with the dog that knows no better or decide to end the relationship. Neither are necessary, yet both are most common. Even when you reach out to a professional dog trainer it’s rare for the handler to continue with enough sessions to see results, put in enough practice as is required, and for the trainer to actually teach you the most important thing every dog handler needs to know, mindset. This poorly constructed transaction leads to a waste of money, a complete loss of faith, and even more resentment towards your dog. So what is the correct mindset of a dog handler? The correct mindset of a dog handler is a fair and just mindset. It empowers the handler to lead without being a tyrant to the dog. If the dog misbehaves, the handler appropriately corrects the dog verbally or physically without being cruel in their correction. If the dog blows you off when you try to recall them, the handler goes and gets the dog calmly and brings them to where they want them and then continues working on it, maybe even leashing the dog up to assure they can get them to come back. If the dog is skittish, the handler is patient with the dog without babying them to the point where the dog feels reinforced in their fear. In an extreme example, when an aggressive dog bites a handler, the handler doesn’t fight back or take it personally. They just get the dog off calmly and continue working on the thing that triggered the bite. If you say, “sit”, that means the dog needs to sit to get the treat. Not lay down, not get the treat and leave, just sit. The correct mindset of a dog handler is balanced. You can’t be a jerk to the dog, but you also can’t let your dog get away with murder. More often than not, I have to teach handlers to be more assertive with their dogs. The tools they use even show their mindset. I know their hearts are in the right place, but they’re doing their dogs a huge disservice by not teaching them boundaries. I can guess the dog on the harness and retractable leash is going to be reactive before I even see the first sign of reactivity. And dragged behind them is their enabling helicopter parent who is so embarrassed by their dog’s behavior around others that they cross the street as soon as they see me walking towards them with my dog unwaveringly next to me on or off leash. Sure the correction may seem like it would hurt you, but you are not a dog. You don’t naturally walk on all fours and your mother, hopefully, didn’t pick you up by the neck in your youth. Some dogs don’t care about corrections and that’s why the prong collar exists. Even still, plenty of reactive dogs do not show any response with the use of a prong collar. Do not let your emotions get in the way of your dog having a good and healthy life and mindset. You’ll get to the ultimate goal of trusting your dog off leash in any environment faster by using the correct tools and methods along with having the right mindset. A good mindset is the most important tool of all. It is not weak, but it is not tyrannical either. You need to find balance in nurture and assertion. Love and clear boundaries. Mother and father in one. This may seem so far off from where you’re at right now with your dog who you have unintentionally let run your household and maybe even your life, but that doesn’t mean you can’t get there. I want to encourage you to find your voice with your dog. I can’t tell you how many of my clients have told me that training their dog this way has helped them get through things that caused them anxiety that aren’t even dog related, like asking their boss for a raise for all of the hard work they do or setting a boundary with their romantic partner. I’m all for loving your dog, not hurting animals, respect, empathy, companionship, and even positive reinforcement. The issue I have though is that there’s three other methods within the four quadrants of learning besides positive reinforcement and they are being shamed and forced out of dog training all together by good hearted people that aren’t looking at the whole picture. I have actually been rejected by animal shelters when I offered to help train their dogs so they would get adopted before the shelter KILLS the dog because they don’t have space just because I told them I used corrections as a part of training. That is how twisted and politicized dog training methods have become and the majority of people don’t see the hypocrisy in their views. A reactive dog needs corrections to learn that there’s a difference between it being a choice and a command. This leads to a happier and healthier dog that will not need to be put down. Corrections are not permanent, but euthanasia is. Once the dog learns they get treats for doing the right thing and are corrected for doing what they know they shouldn’t do, the dog chooses not to do something that they know will earn them a correction. We obviously should make training full of as much positive reinforcement as possible, but when the dog is doing something that could actually get them hurt or just blowing me off when we’ve done the exercise numerous times and they aren’t interested in toys or treats, I will correct them. I don’t need to leave the environment because the dog’s distracted when I can teach the dog that they need to pay attention to me. You shouldn’t aim to hurt the dog with the correction. You should aim to get their attention back on you and then use something they like to keep their attention and reinforce that it’s a way better time when they pay attention to you. I’m going on about this so much because it describes the battle I have with so many people who are just trying to look out for their dog, but don’t see what their actions are doing to the dog’s long term wellbeing. This is the mindset dog handlers need. You should love your dog with all of your heart, but don’t let them become wolves again. They’re dogs because we gave them boundaries and structure. If you take that away we’re going to lose them. I hope this has helped. This was an intense one, but we all need to become passionate about this topic because there is so much happening in the dog world at the human level that is doing our fur babies a huge disservice and will lead to even worse of an outcome. Please feel free to reach out if you’re struggling with your mindset as a dog handler and I will guide you the best I can.

Just like any job, dog training requires using the right tools. Using the wrong tools can lead to unwanted behaviors in your dog and frustration for you. Usually the issue isn’t the tool, but it’s how it’s being applied. I often tell my clients that whacking a screw with a hammer doesn’t do much good. So what are the right tools to use for basic obedience and behavior modifications? The best tools for basic obedience and behavior modifications depend entirely on the dog’s needs. Each dog is unique and requires their own approach for being trained. The approach to train an aggressive dog is way different than the approach to train a skittish dog. Thus, the need for different tools. All any trainer can do that will actually benefit you without meeting your dog is to give you a general idea of the tools you should be open to using and tools that you should stop using to prevent unwanted behaviors. Choosing the right collar is a great start when preparing to train your dog. Collars can be the difference of life or death in some cases. Using the wrong collar could allow your dog to slip out and run into traffic. I’ve also seen plenty of collars break from strong pullers. I don’t like relying on the buckle in or belt flat collars that every dog has their tag on. The buckle breaks and the part that the leash connects to is often a flimsy tack weld instead of a strong weld or it’s not even welded together at all on the backside and can stretch apart. The buckle in ones are also very annoying to adjust the size on. You don’t want to use a harness for basic obedience or behavior modifications because they are designed to allow the dog to pull with minimum corrective pressure. This makes them great tools for sporting activities like sled pulling, protection training, and teaching them to swim. However, that’s where the line should be drawn with the harness. You are confusing the dog by using it on a walk and getting upset with them when they pull. Not only that, but holding them back in such a way can actually build drive in the dog to keep pulling. You on the other hand will lose determination to go on that daily walk. I use and recommend only three kinds of collars. I’m not a huge fan of martingales or gentle leaders. The martingale is a strange mix between a flat and slip collar and I don’t think it’s very good at either. The gentle leader I see used of reactive dogs mostly and it acts as more of a distraction than what their initial triggers were. Distracting your dog is avoidance, not training. Once the dog gets used to the gentle leader I find the correction does not get the same results as the collars I recommend, so I don’t consider it when talking about useful tools. The first of three collars that I recommend is the flat collar. Above I did in fact say that I’m not a fan of the buckle or belt collar which are flat collars and I stand by that, but there is a useful and safe kind of flat collar. It’s the fur saver. Fur savers are actually slip collars but you can connect it back to itself using the leash to create a flat collar. This is a metal collar with large oval links. It will never break and is very easy to adjust the size on so you can assure that it won’t slip off of your dog if you have it on right. I consider the flat collar to be a level one collar. Base level is off leash. If you only need a flat collar to give your dog productive feedback then you’re close to being able to trust them off leash. The next collar, level two, is the slip collar. This is most useful on small dogs with such little body weight that a flat collar doesn’t mean anything to them when corrected with. A good slip collar tightens and loosens very easily to assure swift functionality when needed and your dog’s safety after use. A bad slip collar will stay tight after corrections and not only be causing miscommunication, but it will be choking your dog. We don’t want that. We also don’t want the dog to slip out of the collar when there’s no pressure so be sure there’s a good stopper on it. I don’t like the leather stoppers because they ware and start to loosen very easily. I only use slip collars that have a spring loaded clip stopper. This way when you set how tight the collar should be to assure your dog can’t slip out, you know for certain that it is going to stay in that position. I never leave the slip collar on the dog when I’m not with them. The third collar I sometimes recommend, level three, is the prong collar. This collar helps very reactive dogs snap out of it. It also helps weaker handlers to communicate with a newer dog that isn’t focused on the handler yet. This collar can just as dangerous as it is useful, so you need to know what to consider when getting and using one. Only use this for training and don’t leave it on the dog. You don’t want your dog to get hurt or too used to it. Only use a martingale prong collar. The flat prong functions differently and can hurt your dog while the martingale prong collar applies pressure evening around the neck at an angle. Use a fail safe when using a prong collar. I use the slip collar so if my prong comes undone I still have a level two collar on the dog so the walk home or to the car isn’t miserable and counterproductive. E-collars are fine when used properly. If conditioned well the dog will actually see the collar as something good. When used poorly you get the nightmare stories of dogs turning aggressive or skittish because of it. I will cover the E-collar in a different post because it requires much more detail. I believe it’s similar to gun use; if you know how to use it and respect its’ power it can be a great tool, but in the wrong hands or even just the untrained hands it can lead to horrific events and make you wish they didn’t exist at all. I also find that I can get same result from just using a long line until I completely trust the dog, but don’t want people’s fear of them to keep from the use of a great tool if necessary. I just find that it’s an extra step to teach handlers when I can get their companion dog to recall well enough even when distracted without the use of one. Leashes! The leash is an extension of yourself that connects you to your dog. This is how you will transfer your energy to the dog until they just listen to vocal commands. It’s important that you become a fluent handler of the leash with commonly required movements so when it’s needed you aren’t left tangled up getting dragged towards a squirrel by your dog. I recommend practicing making loops and then letting go one loop at a time and then looping again. See how quick you can get at that without it even being on your dog. Make sure your leash isn’t too slippery. I tie knots in my leashes. In a six foot leash I’ll tie one or two knots at the handler’s end, one in the middle, and one about a foot before the clip. This helps with grip and consistency with hand placements. I use two leashes for basic obedience and behavior modifications. The first and main leash I use is a six foot leash. Like I said above, I tie a few knots in it to help grip and consistency. When getting a new leash I make sure it has no stretch to it at all. I don’t want my energy from the correction to be absorbed by the leash before it makes it to the dog. This leads to frustration for the handler and unclear communication. Materials that are good for this are thin nylon, aged leather, and my current favorite - biothane. While there’s nothing better than the feel of good leather grip-wise, biothane comes stretch free and leather has some stretch to it at first. The other leash I use is a fifteen to twenty foot long line. I tie knots every few feet in it. I drop the long line a lot to give the dog more freedom, but if I need to grab it I can just step on the leash and the knots keep it from slipping from under my foot while the dog is running away. You also want to make sure there’s no stretch with the long line. Your correction can really be muffled by elasticity in the line. Long leashes should be light in weight so I only recommend the thin nylon ones. Practice extra with the long line with the loop and release exercise I described above. With any leash I give a pull test. Step on one end and pull upwards as hard as you can and hold it there for a few seconds. If it wears or breaks throw it out for your dog’s safety. Also look out for the stitching on the handle and especially by the clip. I trust the box x stitch or a straight stitch that is at least two inches long. Any shorter for a straight stitch probably won’t last you a lifetime with your large dog and you never know when it will fail on you. Finally, you should check the clip. The most common clip is a swivel hook with a plunger latch. Be sure the track where the spring rests is not too wide. The spring or latch should not be able to slip out. This could cause the leash to let go of the collar and create an unintentional off leash experience. Bungee and retractable leashes are not very useful for most of basic obedience or behavior modifications. A bungee leash allows the dog to pull and even lightens the blow for them when they sprint away from their handler. You don’t want that. Bungee leashes are great for protection training to reduce the tension the dog feels while they’re supposed to be pulling. I like them for building play drive in dogs. I’ll connect the leash to a post, have the dog on a harness and tease them with the toy before finally letting them get it. Retractable leashes break easily and tempt handlers with poor behaviors. “If the dog is pulling with just six feet of leash why don’t I give them more leash?” is a flawed way of thinking and tells your dog that you have flexible boundaries that they can choose not to listen to because you’ll cave and give them what they want. It’s doing more of a disservice to your dog than correcting them to teach them proper leash manners is. The retractable leash is infamous for breaking. In the rare cases that I recommend it, the dog is very light in weight and the handler is unable to be fast enough with the long line to safely operate it. The retractable handle also makes the correction more of a row which engages the back more than a correction should. A correction should be an effortless wrist and elbow snap like using a whip, not a workout. One of the most important tools in dog training is a high quality treat. At home the dog may listen for any old snack, but in public they may be too distracted at first to care about anything but real and raw meat. Hotdogs are the cheapest and most used by dog trainers. They may be too rich for your dog at first, but they’ll get used to it unless they have an allergy to the type of hotdog meat you’re giving them. You can use most any meat for training your dog. Cut them into pea-sized bits so it doesn’t take too long for your dog to chew and they last much longer that way. As time goes on I start to mix their kibble in with the meat and wean the dogs off of the meat so they just listen for their regular food in any environment. You can also use vegan substitutes. I personally like this option since I’m vegan. My dog and cat eat vegan food designed to give them all of the nutrients needed for their species to live long and healthy lives. I try not too buy meat when I can avoid it because I’m personally vegan, but I do also understand that dogs all go insane for real meat. It’s a part of being a pet owner, but there are ways to avoid having to buy it such as becoming friends with your local butcher or restaurant manager to see if they can put aside some scraps meat for you. They’ll usually give you a garbage bag worth of meat, fresh from that day - which is better than what’s in your dry kibble - to take home and preserve and use as treats or regular food. Make sure not to give them just fat to avoid conditions like obesity and pancreatitis. A treat pouch is a necessary accessory for dog training. Not your pocket, not a Ziploc. A pouch like a fanny pack or in my preference just a clip on bag that is very easy and quick for my to get the treat out of. With treat pouches you’ll find there’s a balance of cleanliness and durability. The ones that are easy to clean break easily and the pouches that don’t break easy are annoying to clean. Find what works for you. I use both all the time and go through phases of which kind I prefer. You also want to make sure the treats don’t fall out when you bend over. I prefer a magnet or and snap shut pouch rather than the shoe string or zipper kinds. Those are most of the tools that I use. I’ll do another post about toys that I recommend. I’m very selective about the types of toys I use and how to use them. You can also get a place mat for your dog. I recommend a raised dog cot. It’s easier to teach place with those. More on the E-collar later. Feel free to reach out with any questions on anything covered here or dog related in general. I hope this post has helped.

If you're a dog owner who's struggling with obedience or behavior issues, a board and train program can be a great option. Board and train programs are designed to help your dog learn new behaviors and overcome bad habits while living with a professional trainer for an extended period of time. However, not all board and train programs are created equal. It's essential to do your research and choose a program that's right for you and your dog. Here are some things to look for when considering a board and train program: Trainer qualifications and experience: The first thing to consider is the trainer's qualifications and experience. You want to make sure that your dog is in the hands of a professional who has experience training dogs and is knowledgeable about dog behavior. Training philosophy and methods: Different trainers have different philosophies and methods when it comes to dog training. Make sure to ask about their training approach to ensure it aligns with your own beliefs and values. Facility: Check out the facility where your dog will be staying during the program. It should be clean, safe, and provide adequate space for your dog to rest and play. Program length: The length of the program can vary depending on the trainer and the specific needs of your dog. Make sure to ask about the length of the program to ensure it fits your schedule and budget. Training curriculum: Ask about the specific behaviors and skills that will be taught during the program. You want to make sure that the program addresses your dog's specific needs and provides them with the skills they need to succeed. Follow-up support: After your dog completes the program, it's important to have access to follow-up support to ensure that the training sticks. Make sure to ask about any post-program support that's available. Client reviews: Finally, read reviews and testimonials from past clients to get a sense of the program's success rate and overall client satisfaction. In conclusion, choosing a board and train program is an important decision for both you and your dog. By considering these key factors, you can find a program that will provide your dog with the training they need to succeed and give you peace of mind knowing your dog is in good hands.

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Balanced dog training is a modern, science-based approach to training dogs that emphasizes the use of positive reinforcement, negative reinforcement, and, in some cases, correction in a way that is humane and effective. Unlike traditional training methods that rely heavily on punishment and intimidation, balanced dog training takes into account the individual personality, temperament, and learning style of each dog, and tailors the training approach to meet the needs of the individual animal. One of the key benefits of balanced dog training is that it is based on an understanding of the behavior and psychology of dogs. This means that trainers who use this approach are able to tailor their training methods to the individual needs of each dog, making the training process much more effective and efficient. In contrast, traditional training methods that rely too heavily on punishment and intimidation can actually make behavior problems worse, as dogs may become frightened or aggressive in response to being treated harshly. Another benefit of balanced dog training is that it helps to build a strong bond between the dog and owner. During training sessions, the owner has the opportunity to interact with their dog in a positive, supportive way, which can strengthen the relationship between the two. Additionally, balanced dog training can help dogs to learn more effectively and respond more quickly to commands, as well as reducing the likelihood of behavior problems. In addition to being effective, balanced dog training is also humane and ethical. Trainers who use this approach may use correction as part of the training process, but they always do so in a way that is safe, fair, and effective. This helps to ensure that the dog is happy, healthy, and well-adjusted, and that the relationship between the dog and owner is based on trust and mutual respect. Overall, balanced dog training is the best approach because it prioritizes the welfare of the dog and helps to ensure that training is both effective and enjoyable for both the dog and the owner. By using a combination of positive reinforcement, negative reinforcement, and correction in a way that is tailored to the individual needs of each dog, balanced dog training provides an effective, humane, and ethical way to train dogs.