Do you have a dog that doesn’t behave? Do they pull when on leash, bark at people, and not come when called? Are you embarrassed to take them places with you? Do they make your house seem like a circus? These are some of the most common things I hear from dog owners when they first reach out inquiring about my training programs. I’m going to tell you today that getting a dog to not only stop any undesired behaviors, but also transform them into the perfect companion dog is as easy as 1, 2, & 3.
Many trainers will teach you so many commands and tricks that it can be overwhelming. Not to mention that most of the commands are nothing more than party tricks. Sure, it helps build a bond with the dog, but you can be building your bond with your dog while teaching them some very useful things. To train your reactive, aggressive, skittish, or simply untrained dog to behave all you need is three commands.
You may be wondering, “Why just three commands?” or “How does that get my dog to stop being aggressive?”. Let me tell you! You only need three commands, but not just any three commands. The three commands I'm referring to are the most useful commands of all. You can stop your dog’s aggression or other unwanted behaviors with these commands by first teaching the dog these commands without the trigger present and then setting up a controlled session where you will introduce the thing that triggers your dog while expecting them to still obey these commands. By doing this the right way you speed up training without needing to avoid their triggers. Instead of crossing the street when a dog is coming, you’ll be able to pass the dog without hiccup. So what are the three most important commands?
The first thing you need to teach your dog isn’t really a command at all. It’s more of a boundary that you need to set with any dog you’re handling. That boundary is leash manners! Leash manners is the most complicated of all the things I teach, but it’s also the best way to teach any dog to never pull on leash again and translates to off leash much better than a forced heel does. A forced heel is what most people try to do with their dog and I think it’s useless without treats and when your dog is distracted enough, they don’t care about treats. They just use the leash instead and constantly drag or pop the dog back to where they want them. Oftentimes they even hold the dog back in that position which just builds frustration and drive in your dog to keep trying to go ahead.
Leash manners has three rules. No stopping unless it’s a potty break, no zig zagging, and no pulling. The dog can stop you twice per hour for a potty break. If they like to mark, they can’t stop me while they do it after the second stop. They are used to holding it, that’s how they mark, so you do not need to worry about this hurting your dog. They will learn to let more out in the first stop and usually stop marking all together. I don’t mind marking, so if they can lift their leg and mark without stopping me, I’m usually ok with it.
No zig zagging means they can’t cut across you in front, behind, or out away from you. I recommend starting by staying consistent with practicing only on one side. It will be a little easier if everyone that walks the dog walked them on the same side, but not essential as the dog will soon learn which side to walk on with which handlers. Walking them on one side makes training consistent for the dog and allows them to learn what you expect of them much faster than otherwise. With this rule also comes a rule for the handler which is to not allow the dog to correct themselves when they cut you off by going around you. If they cut across the front of you, they go back to the correct side in front of you. Same with behind you. This prevents them from developing the habit of running circles around you and making you always switch hands with the leash.
Both of these rules can be handled by continuing to walk when the rule is broken and correcting the dog or luring the dog either back to the correct side or to continue walking. You do not want to stop walking when they stop walking or zig zag. When you stop while they do these things your body language is giving them control of the walk. I will just keep them going along and get them out of my way. You also don’t walk to get out of the dog’s way when they zig zag across you in the front. I just walk right through them to teach them that they need to look out for me, not the other way around.
Simple enough so far, but here’s the kicker. When your dog pulls you on leash and there’s tension it’s already too late. I let the dog go the entire length of the leash in front of me, but always end up with them choosing to stay right by my side. I get this result, known as a natural heel, by stopping as soon as the dog starts to go ahead of me on our walk. I give them the entire length of the six foot leash to choose to either leave me or stay with me. Just before they create tension in the line, I tug on the leash a little. Timing is everything with this correction; if you do it too late, you’ll be dragging your dog and if you do it too early, the dog won’t feel anything. You want to match your tug with the exact moment they reach the end of the line. This way you let the dog’s momentum do most of the correcting for you, you just emphasize it. Once the dog looks back, the walk continues. The correction should be just hard enough to get them to look back, not hurt them. If they don’t look back, take another step back and correct them again. If they still don’t look back you can turn them around towards you by putting your knee or hand just before their hips while gently pulling the leash back towards you. Once they look back, even then, say, “Good” and continue the walk.
If they stop with me, they don’t need to look back, I just continue walking. The sooner you start walking again after they either look back or stop with you, the sooner they will begin to understand the game we’re teaching them. They may get smart and stop just before there’s tension on the line, but that’s not what I want them to learn from this. I want them to learn to focus on me on our walks. When they stop just before there’s tension, I’ll turn and walk the other way. That way they have to come quickly before there’s tension and they get a correction. This, along with variations of this, always teaches them to stay close because they get treats and love when they’re close and corrected when they decide to leave or follow their own impulses. Within a very short period of time you’ll be ready to drop the leash and start trying to get the same results off leash.
Leash manners can be used to overcome unwanted behaviors because now your dog knows they can’t leave you when on a leash so if they decide to lunge at the dog across the street, they get corrected and know why. It’s not even necessarily because they lunged at the dog because maybe it was a playful lunge. It’s because they ditched their handler. It gives the dog something else to consider and focus on when on a walk with their owner. They will begin to care only about what the handler is doing and wants from them because that’s what keeps them stimulated, not the distractions the rest of the world has to offer.
The second command is recall. Recall may be the most important of all commands because it can save your dog’s life. If their other commands are not fine tuned yet and they run out into the street while you get the mail, you can call them back before a car comes. There are countless examples of how recall can be the difference of life or death for your dog.
Once you get recall down, it will become difficult to get far enough away from your dog to do a natural recall. That’s a good problem to have. Recall makes it so you can trust your dog off leash in any environment. When you can trust your dog will come back no matter what distractions there are, your trust in your dog grows tenfold and taking them out with you is one of the nicest experiences in life. So how do you go from where your dog’s recall is at now to what I’m talking about?
To teach your dog to have insanely reliable recall you’ll need a long leash that’s 15’-20’, a treat pouch full of high value treats, and a good collar that won’t break. For more on the best tools to use check out my other post: https://www.harnessingpotentialdogtraining.com/dog-training-tools.
Once you have all of the correct tools you can get started on recall with your dog. There are two ways of working on recall with your dog. The easy way and the realistic way. The easy way is where you have your dog in a sit or down stay, walk away, and call them. This is easier because they’re likely very focused on you when they’re in a command. It’s a great way to get started and you can always add in distractions like throwing their favorite toy the opposite way you are from them and calling them to you at the same time. You can also put their food down in front of them and call them away from it. Whatever you think will distract them while you call them to you is a great start and easy to set up.
The realistic way is where the dog is free to roam while on a long line and call them to you when they get distracted by something like another dog, a strong scent, a squirrel, or anything else that would naturally distract your dog. I prefer this method because every dog could use as much practice listening to commands while in that distracted mindset. I find that it leads to off leash very quickly because you can trust what your dog will do when they see, smell, hear, or feel distractions. I prefer that they always check in with their handler when something they aren’t sure of how to handle themselves comes up. See a horseback rider on the trail? Come check in with me instead of freaking out and spooking them.
You will go about training either method in the same way. Have the long line on, create space between your dog and yourself, call them with an important sounding tone of voice, and give them a treat when they get to you. If they don’t listen to the first command, tug the leash slightly to get their attention, and call one more time. You do not want to call more than twice or so because then your command starts to lose meaning. If they still don’t listen to you after the second call, reel them in until they start to do it on their own. Even if you have to reel them in all the way you should still give them a treat when they get to you and focus on you for a moment.
When you don’t feel like your dog is doing very well you can make the distance shorter between you and your dog. You can also think about where you’re practicing and how much your dog cares about your treats compared to how distracted they are. If they’re too distracted you should find a spot where they are a little less distracted and practice. It really all depends on your dog. If they are very stressed out and anxious or aggressive because of their surroundings then you should reduce the distraction. If they’re just slightly distracted, but you can get their attention, you should keep working there and make yourself as fun and entertaining as possible. I don’t mean to become a jester for your dog, but to make training a little more fun for them. Bring better treats, keep the dog engaged with you and the treats for a moment or two and then try recall, run away from your dog and have them chase you around, and use toys as well as treats.
The third thing you should train your dog is a solid down stay. By “solid” I mean they can stay exactly where you left them while you cook dinner, take a shower, get the mail, have a dinner party, or roughhouse with the kids. For example, I used to bring my dog to work with me where I worked 8 hour shifts and would keep her in a down stay the whole time except for my breaks where I would let her run around and get a quick training session with her before having her wait for me again. Down stay helps you to be able to include your dog in your life outside of just the house and it helps make life at home more peaceful.
Down stay is much different from just down. Down, in my opinion, is nothing more than a party trick if the dog learns to get up and leave after they get the treat. Down has no utility on its own. Down stay teaches the dog that the command is not over until you say, not because they got what they wanted. Down teaches the dog to manipulate you into feeding them and then they go back to doing whatever they want.
I recommend teaching down stay with an implied stay. Everyone teaches stay by putting their hand up to the dog and creeping away which isn’t doing your mindset any favors. You’re teaching yourself to tiptoe around your dog. Everyone also says “stay” way too much. “Stay! Good stay. No! No, stay. Stay, stay, stay, stay, stay.”. Now try to leave the room. You’re reinforcing the command too much and it seems most people do that without even realizing what they’re doing. I just tell the dog to lay down and start giving them treats without saying the command any more. Then I build up to leaving the room. I have no problem with teaching stay if you’re going to do it right, but most people can’t help themselves and say the command too much.
I teach down by luring the dog into the down position with a treat. You can wean the treat out as the dog begins to understand the command. If they don’t go down right away, I say the command one more time and apply some leash pressure. If they resist, just wait them out. If it takes more than a few minutes or the dog is stressed out by the pressure, then just say come and apply pressure on the leash, having them chase the treat around. The leash pressure should go in the direction you want them to go in. Then try to lure them back down. The pressure should be very light. You do not want to drag the dog down. Dragging the dog will make them resist more and won’t teach them the command. The pressure should be like a puzzle for the dog. If they resist, the pressure stays. If they go with it, the pressure is released.
Once the dog is down, I give them the treat for laying down and then continue giving them treats every second or so to reinforce the implied stay. I get up when I think I can without the dog following me. Once up, I stand tall and then give another treat and keep repeating that until I can take one step away from the dog, then two, then three. Then I take a step to the left, then right. After each step I come back and give the dog a treat. Then I turn my back to the dog and come back and give a treat. As time goes on I start to go further and increase the time between treats. Once the dog is really good, I’ll leave the room for a second, throw their favorite toy, ring the doorbell, open the refrigerator, prepare their food, or sit down where we usually cuddle. The more distractions you can throw at your dog without them getting up, the more relaxed both of you will be when you throw another dinner party.
If the dog gets up at any point, I grab the leash and apply some pressure downwards to get them to lay back down. I’ll say the command once while doing this and I won’t give them a treat. If you give them a treat after correcting them for getting up, I find they learn to outsmart us and continue to get up so they get a treat again. Do not let them manipulate you like that. By the way, when I say, “outsmart” and “manipulate” I say it for us humans to understand. The dog is just trying to figure out whatever gets them the treat. They aren’t basing their actions on morality like we do.
With these three simple commands you can teach your dog to stop being reactive, calm down, and focus on you. They will allow you the freedom and peace of mind every dog owner craves. Your dog will know enough to have a healthy and structured relationship with you and be able to join you anywhere. It doesn’t matter where you’re starting, it just takes time, patience, precision, and love. There are of course more commands you can teach your dog that are valuable such as place, look, sit, leave it, and hop up, but the three we covered today are the most useful across the board in my experience.